Traveling in the Exumas

Traveling in the Exumas as been quite magical. Perhaps I have used this term previously as it comes to mind each morning we awake on Kuivato.  I realize I have once again been delinquent with updating the blog. Our usual mode of action with the blog is that I initiate the entries and Tim makes additions and edits. It actually has been hard to find the time work on blog entries and it indeed takes a lot of time. However, recently we received a comment in the blog from Julie J. , one of the gyne girls, telling me how much she has been enjoying the stories and pictures from our adventure. Well, thank you Julie for giving me the impetus to continue my entries, I am so delighted the blog gives you pleasure!

Snorkeling and Scuba diving around Allen's Cay

While I must admit the fresh lobsters and conch were quite memorable in Allen's Cay, I was happy to finally be leaving Allen's Cay after 4 days, but as we were preparing to leave Tim discovered a quart of oil had leaked from the diesel engine while doing his periodic engine checks.  While Tim inspected further, I settled into my book, "Over the Edge of the World" the fascinating story of Magellan's explorations. An engine oil leak could potentially be a very serious engine issue but after quite a bit of sleuthing around the engine to identify the source of leak,  it was found to be a failed oil pressure warning light switch. I am continuously amazed at his ability to tackle about any mechanical problem we encounter. It's a good thing because repairs at a boatyard are extraordinarily expensive and there are no repair facilities within at least 50 miles. Fortunately coating the leaking switch with some JB Weld epoxy at least appeared to temporarily stopped the leak until we could get hold of a new switch  

We sailed from Allen's Cay to Highbourne Cay with S/SE 10-15 knot winds. Once again a shark took our lure which was a secret blessing as I am still getting comfortable with the emergency drill that occurs when we catch a fish while sailing. We anchored off the northwest  shore of Highbourne, inflated the kayak, and kayaked into the local marina for some ice and to get a little upper body workout. We later drift snorkeled with Graham and Janaki in the afternoon which was lots of fun.

The next day in paradise was clear in the 80's and we sailed to Norman's Cay, the site of the infamous drug trafficking days of the late 70s and early 80's depicted in the Johnny Depp film Blow. Tim wanted to return to Normans Cay as he has sailed there with his family back in 1968 on a chartered Soverel 28.

We snorkeled the wreck of a crashed drug cargo plane in the middle of the bay and took the dinghy  on yet another adventure around the east coast of the island with waves crashing over the dinghy bow soaking Oz (our IPad in its Lifeproof waterproof case) and the Bad Elf Bluetooth  GPS. On our way into the very cool Norman's Pond hurricane hole, we used the handheld depth sounder to identify the insanely narrow and shallow channel to see if we might bring Kuivato in. We decided it could be done at slack high tide but you would really want to be in the pond to try the challenging entrance. After touring the pond we made our way through a back channel of mangroves, sandbars and flats to a glorious beach were we had to stop and frolick until the sun started to set. Reluctantly we jumped back into the dinghy and returned the Kuivato as the sun set in the western sky. We begin and end each day with a swim and this one was no different.

The next day we sailed E/SE in 10-15 knots to Shroud Cay in the Exumas Land and Sea Park. Here we took the dinghy and a picnic lunch a few miles through the mangroves to the Atlantic Ocean. The dynamic inlet was quite exciting watching it change over many hours from high to low tide. We swam, hiked, read and napped in the shade.

The beach inlet at the east end of the Shroud Cay mangrove channel

From Shroud Cay we moved on to Warderwick Wells where the Exumas Land and Sea  Park headquarters are located. The Park is a 22 mile stretch of the Exumas which was apparently inspired by foreigners in the late 1950s who felt it was necessary to protect a part of the Exumas from development and overfishing. The taking of plants and sea life is prohibited in the Park and the only development allowed is on the privately owned cays under rights which were grandfathered when the Park was established, the subject of much controversy even today. 

Top of Waderick Wells with Kuivato offering.

After some nice hiking we continued on to Cambridge Cay where we joined in on our first anchorage Happy Hour where cruisers gathered just before sunset on a little island and shared drink and food. The next morning we toured around in the dinghy snorkeling reefs and even a small cave at the Rocky Dundas

A cave at the Rocky Dundas near Cambridge Cay

You see lots of these guys snorkeling!

Our plan was to get to Little Farmers Cay for the 5Fs festival (First Friday February Farmers Cay Festival), so southward we sailed on to Blackpoint, one of the largest settlements in the Exumas with a population of 300 (and an unemployment rate of 50%!). The huge harbor with a sandy bottom with great holding for anchors, was packed with over 100 boats. Blackpoint has learned to cater to cruisers ($$$)  and has three restaurants, a very we'll run laundromat, a couple grocery stores, lots of free wifi , free RO water at a roadside spigot and fresh baked coconut bread to die for from Lorraine's mom.  Another feature in Blackpoint is The Garden of Eden, a driftwood sculpture garden which has been a longtime passion of Willy who gives you a personal tour of his property. Willy says he sees shapes in the clouds and then goes searching for driftwood to construct the sculptures.... an iguana, a one legged dancing lady, a flamingo.....

Diane and Willy at the Garden of Eden.

Then it was on to Little Farmers Cay for the 5Fs. We had a great sail anchored with about 100 boats off of Ty's Sunset Bar, an ideally sited beach bar adjacent to the islands  2500 foot runway. The biggest feature of the 5Fs is the Bahamas C Class sloop races. The sloops are towed and ferried from the surrounding family islands.  Oddly the race course was set up within the anchorage, great for viewing from your boat, not so good for the racers which had to dodge all the. Anchored boats. 

The racers all line up at the starting line and drop anchors. At the starting signal, the crews haul in the anchors as fast as they can, raise the huge mainsails, and off they go.

By Monday morning, Kuivato was the only boat remaining at anchor off of Ty's , so we had the place to ourselves and took advantage of the idyllic setting and free wifi. 

Kuivato in the background from the deck at Ty's Sunset Bar on Monday following the 5Fs

Our next destination was back north at Staniel Cay to pick up Tim's dad Norm and partner Mila, who were  joining us for a week of cruising. Unfortunately we sit here in Pipe Creek between the Big and Little Major Cays anticipating the arrival of the stormy weather extending south from the huge snow and ice storm hitting the east coast from Georgia to New England which has been called the "storm of a lifetime" be Tim Kelly, the weatherman at NECN. Norm and Mila were planning to fly in today from NH  to the little airport at nearby Staniel Cay but the weather canceled their flights and we are all quite disappointed. We are anchored with 30 other boats in a long narrow anchorage that has protection from all sides save the inlet to the SE which allows an ocean swell, or surge, to roll into the anchorage, making it relatively uncomfortable but still protected from the strong west winds The wind is predicted to die down a bit by the next day, along with the rain. Amazingly this is only the fourth day since leaving Kittery that we have had rain during the day. We actually could use some rain to wash away the salt coating Kuivato. Tim has also arranged the buckets along sides of the  bimini to collect some fresh water for the sun shower. Fresh water is typically $0.40/gallon at marinas and where it is free at some town docks, you have to lug 5 gallon jugs to the boat via the dinghy. So, any chance to collect fresh water is taken advantage of.  We had been warned about the difficulty of making plans to meet people during the cruise, particularly dealing with weather restrictions and having to be at a place to pick visitors up. Well, we made it to the pickup point fine, but the weather back on the mainland screwed it all up. While we see how Norm and Mila reschedule their trip, we need to head south to George Town to meet up with my son Jackson and daughter Kelsey and her boyfriend Bryan.