Traveling in the Exumas

Traveling in the Exumas as been quite magical. Perhaps I have used this term previously as it comes to mind each morning we awake on Kuivato.  I realize I have once again been delinquent with updating the blog. Our usual mode of action with the blog is that I initiate the entries and Tim makes additions and edits. It actually has been hard to find the time work on blog entries and it indeed takes a lot of time. However, recently we received a comment in the blog from Julie J. , one of the gyne girls, telling me how much she has been enjoying the stories and pictures from our adventure. Well, thank you Julie for giving me the impetus to continue my entries, I am so delighted the blog gives you pleasure!

Snorkeling and Scuba diving around Allen's Cay

While I must admit the fresh lobsters and conch were quite memorable in Allen's Cay, I was happy to finally be leaving Allen's Cay after 4 days, but as we were preparing to leave Tim discovered a quart of oil had leaked from the diesel engine while doing his periodic engine checks.  While Tim inspected further, I settled into my book, "Over the Edge of the World" the fascinating story of Magellan's explorations. An engine oil leak could potentially be a very serious engine issue but after quite a bit of sleuthing around the engine to identify the source of leak,  it was found to be a failed oil pressure warning light switch. I am continuously amazed at his ability to tackle about any mechanical problem we encounter. It's a good thing because repairs at a boatyard are extraordinarily expensive and there are no repair facilities within at least 50 miles. Fortunately coating the leaking switch with some JB Weld epoxy at least appeared to temporarily stopped the leak until we could get hold of a new switch  

We sailed from Allen's Cay to Highbourne Cay with S/SE 10-15 knot winds. Once again a shark took our lure which was a secret blessing as I am still getting comfortable with the emergency drill that occurs when we catch a fish while sailing. We anchored off the northwest  shore of Highbourne, inflated the kayak, and kayaked into the local marina for some ice and to get a little upper body workout. We later drift snorkeled with Graham and Janaki in the afternoon which was lots of fun.

The next day in paradise was clear in the 80's and we sailed to Norman's Cay, the site of the infamous drug trafficking days of the late 70s and early 80's depicted in the Johnny Depp film Blow. Tim wanted to return to Normans Cay as he has sailed there with his family back in 1968 on a chartered Soverel 28.

We snorkeled the wreck of a crashed drug cargo plane in the middle of the bay and took the dinghy  on yet another adventure around the east coast of the island with waves crashing over the dinghy bow soaking Oz (our IPad in its Lifeproof waterproof case) and the Bad Elf Bluetooth  GPS. On our way into the very cool Norman's Pond hurricane hole, we used the handheld depth sounder to identify the insanely narrow and shallow channel to see if we might bring Kuivato in. We decided it could be done at slack high tide but you would really want to be in the pond to try the challenging entrance. After touring the pond we made our way through a back channel of mangroves, sandbars and flats to a glorious beach were we had to stop and frolick until the sun started to set. Reluctantly we jumped back into the dinghy and returned the Kuivato as the sun set in the western sky. We begin and end each day with a swim and this one was no different.

The next day we sailed E/SE in 10-15 knots to Shroud Cay in the Exumas Land and Sea Park. Here we took the dinghy and a picnic lunch a few miles through the mangroves to the Atlantic Ocean. The dynamic inlet was quite exciting watching it change over many hours from high to low tide. We swam, hiked, read and napped in the shade.

The beach inlet at the east end of the Shroud Cay mangrove channel

From Shroud Cay we moved on to Warderwick Wells where the Exumas Land and Sea  Park headquarters are located. The Park is a 22 mile stretch of the Exumas which was apparently inspired by foreigners in the late 1950s who felt it was necessary to protect a part of the Exumas from development and overfishing. The taking of plants and sea life is prohibited in the Park and the only development allowed is on the privately owned cays under rights which were grandfathered when the Park was established, the subject of much controversy even today. 

Top of Waderick Wells with Kuivato offering.

After some nice hiking we continued on to Cambridge Cay where we joined in on our first anchorage Happy Hour where cruisers gathered just before sunset on a little island and shared drink and food. The next morning we toured around in the dinghy snorkeling reefs and even a small cave at the Rocky Dundas

A cave at the Rocky Dundas near Cambridge Cay

You see lots of these guys snorkeling!

Our plan was to get to Little Farmers Cay for the 5Fs festival (First Friday February Farmers Cay Festival), so southward we sailed on to Blackpoint, one of the largest settlements in the Exumas with a population of 300 (and an unemployment rate of 50%!). The huge harbor with a sandy bottom with great holding for anchors, was packed with over 100 boats. Blackpoint has learned to cater to cruisers ($$$)  and has three restaurants, a very we'll run laundromat, a couple grocery stores, lots of free wifi , free RO water at a roadside spigot and fresh baked coconut bread to die for from Lorraine's mom.  Another feature in Blackpoint is The Garden of Eden, a driftwood sculpture garden which has been a longtime passion of Willy who gives you a personal tour of his property. Willy says he sees shapes in the clouds and then goes searching for driftwood to construct the sculptures.... an iguana, a one legged dancing lady, a flamingo.....

Diane and Willy at the Garden of Eden.

Then it was on to Little Farmers Cay for the 5Fs. We had a great sail anchored with about 100 boats off of Ty's Sunset Bar, an ideally sited beach bar adjacent to the islands  2500 foot runway. The biggest feature of the 5Fs is the Bahamas C Class sloop races. The sloops are towed and ferried from the surrounding family islands.  Oddly the race course was set up within the anchorage, great for viewing from your boat, not so good for the racers which had to dodge all the. Anchored boats. 

The racers all line up at the starting line and drop anchors. At the starting signal, the crews haul in the anchors as fast as they can, raise the huge mainsails, and off they go.

By Monday morning, Kuivato was the only boat remaining at anchor off of Ty's , so we had the place to ourselves and took advantage of the idyllic setting and free wifi. 

Kuivato in the background from the deck at Ty's Sunset Bar on Monday following the 5Fs

Our next destination was back north at Staniel Cay to pick up Tim's dad Norm and partner Mila, who were  joining us for a week of cruising. Unfortunately we sit here in Pipe Creek between the Big and Little Major Cays anticipating the arrival of the stormy weather extending south from the huge snow and ice storm hitting the east coast from Georgia to New England which has been called the "storm of a lifetime" be Tim Kelly, the weatherman at NECN. Norm and Mila were planning to fly in today from NH  to the little airport at nearby Staniel Cay but the weather canceled their flights and we are all quite disappointed. We are anchored with 30 other boats in a long narrow anchorage that has protection from all sides save the inlet to the SE which allows an ocean swell, or surge, to roll into the anchorage, making it relatively uncomfortable but still protected from the strong west winds The wind is predicted to die down a bit by the next day, along with the rain. Amazingly this is only the fourth day since leaving Kittery that we have had rain during the day. We actually could use some rain to wash away the salt coating Kuivato. Tim has also arranged the buckets along sides of the  bimini to collect some fresh water for the sun shower. Fresh water is typically $0.40/gallon at marinas and where it is free at some town docks, you have to lug 5 gallon jugs to the boat via the dinghy. So, any chance to collect fresh water is taken advantage of.  We had been warned about the difficulty of making plans to meet people during the cruise, particularly dealing with weather restrictions and having to be at a place to pick visitors up. Well, we made it to the pickup point fine, but the weather back on the mainland screwed it all up. While we see how Norm and Mila reschedule their trip, we need to head south to George Town to meet up with my son Jackson and daughter Kelsey and her boyfriend Bryan.

Nassau, Bahamas to the Exumas!

After our successful sail fishing from the Berry Islands to Nassau, we arrived at the west entrance to Nassau Harbor just after sunset. Not one, but two massive cruise ships were leaving the  harbor as we were sailing in. One was the Disney ship with a massive video screen projecting all the Disney characters....oh boy! We  snugged up to the  SW corner of the harbor to stay clear of these monsters and hailed  the Port Authority who was apparently too busy dealing with the cruise ship departure to respond to us. By this time, we were entering an unknown harbor in darkness which we have said we would avoid. Fortunately my experienced captain was at the helm slowly navigating the unmarked bridges and unlit renegade boats and we anchored along the north shore adjacent to Paradise Island. The current was ripping through the harbor so we put out a stern anchor.  In the morning it was apparent we were anchored a bit to close to the channel as the ferry boats were passing us both to port and starboard. 

With much difficulty, we hauled up the anchors and checked into the Nassau Harbor Club and Marina across the channel where Leela was staying. Tim kept having déjà vu as we walked through the swimming pool courtyard and he finally realized this was the same hotel he stayed at with his family in the late 60s when his family chartered a Soverel 28 and cruised the northern Exumas. Much had changed Nassau and a lot has been neglected since then, and especially after the 2008 market crash which hit the islands hard.

We walked to Potters Cay under the Paradise Island Bridge. Potter Cay is where the locals set up their food stalls selling fabulously fresh ethnic food along with food stands with fruits and vegetables. Many of the restaurants have small bars which are packed with locals drinking and playing games, looks like a lot of fun for the evening but this was happening as soon as they open at 1100. We enjoyed a delicious snapper dinner and conch ceviche salad and scored a delicious massive avocado which Tim later turned into a guacamole, yummy. Tim made numerous runs to the local marine supply stores and liquor stores to load up with inexpensive Nassau Rum at $8.50/liter!  Now the challenge was how to store all these liters of rum throughout the already stuffed cabinets and lockers.

Since Nassau would be the last major city we would visit for over two months we checked all our "need to buy" lists and filled all the water tanks to capacity along with a new 25 gallon water bladder we strapped on deck along with two 5 gallon waterjugs. Tim lugged the 5 gallon gasoline jug to a nearby gas station to top it off with fuel for the outboard. Finally we needed to get one of our propane tanks for the stove filled which meant having a fellow come to the marina, take the tank to get filled and return it..... in "Bahama time", which meant you are never sure when you will actually get the tank back. After a long day of getting ready we backed Kuivato out of the slip (an Ericson 38 maneuvers wonderfully even in reverse, unlike many sailboats), pulled up to the fuel dock to top off the diesel tank and heading out to the nearby anchorage.  Once again we were anchored in an area with strong currents and opposing winds which makes for an unsettled wild night of boat swinging in all directions requiring everyone to leave a lot of swing room to avoid having boats swing into each other. The next day we did some final provisioning (ie: mostly buy more rum..... We broke a bottle on the cabin floor, who knew rum makes a great floor cleaner and smells wonderful!). That afternoon we sailed a short 6 miles east of Nassau to Rose Island for the night to get away from the commotion of Nassau (sirens, ferries, tour boats, jet skis, currents.....). It was lovely to get away and have a nice quiet anchorage to ourselves. The next morning we met Leela at Porgee Rocks and set off for the 35 mile leg to the Exumas! It was a beautiful sail across the Great Exumas Bank which averages about 15 foot depth with its shallow  sand flats and coral heads which require keeping a close eye on the charts, navigation software and in the more shallow areas, a spotter on the bow to point out shallow hazards and the deeper water. 

We arrived at Allens Cay buy late afternoon and dropped the hook in crystal clear water in a lovely protected anchorage with about 20 other cruisers. Allens is often the first stop in the Exumas  for most cruisers, and while often crowded, it's still a lovely place with endangered iguanas on the beaches, nice snorkeling sites and lots of small islands nearby that you can dinghy to and have your own private  beach to enjoy.  We spent three  days just swimming, relaxing, exploring, and eating lobster and conch we bought from some local fishermen. 

After 3 days it was time to more on.  As we were preparing to leave Tim decided to check the engine since he had notice more engine oil odor than normal. He found a quart of oil under the engine.....ugh, an oil leak, this could be bad. Four hours later he determined oil was leaking from the oil pressure sender which screws onto the engine block. This was good news because it meant the oil wasn't coming from a blown gasket, bad bearing seal or a hole in some part of the engine. A temporary solution was to seal the leak in the sensor with JB Weld, an amazing 2-part epoxy.  This however meant another night at our paridise setting waiting for the epoxy to cure. The next morning we fired up the engine and the leak appeared to be fixed, at least for now.  Off to the next stop, Highborne Cay.

Photos to be included later, hopefully!

The Berry Islands

We chose to go to the Berry islands as we heard they were lots of secluded anchorages and few boats. This turned out to be quite true and wonderful. We spent one night at the marina on Great Harbor Cay which was interesting. We saw stacks and stacks of conch shells but were unable to sleuth out any snorkeling around. The plethora of fish under the boat was quite entertaining. Graham encountered a manatee under Leela at the dock when he went fishing for Janaki's glasses one morning. What a surprise, plus he recovered the glasses!

The bar at the marina was quite a scene. It was open mid morning and three locals were sitting on barstools drinking beer in a 12x12 ft dimly lit room. We had only wished it were a bit later and we would have joined in the colorful scene but alas we decided to walk to "town". 

On the way, we were offered a ride by a young man driving into town. We declined partially because we weren't quite certain we were going into town or to the beach. We talked about the missed opportunity to meet the locals so 5 minutes later when another car stopped to offer us a ride, of course we simultaneously smiled and jumped in. We still hadn't decided whether we were going to the beach or town but our ganga smoking, beer drinking friend had an idea for us. He took us 1 mile away to a driveway and dropped us  at  our own beach where he promised we would have the place to ourselves and indeed we did. The Beach Club was, until 2 weeks ago, a full on beach bar with a sound system, good sized bar, and running water and an outdoor shower! Indeed it looked like it had been abandoned for at least a year, but it was all ours and the fresh water outdoor shower still worked, wohoo. Unlimited fresh water showers are quite a luxury when you are cruising.(note: us off the term "fresh" water in the Bahamas has different meaning. In this case the public water system was a sulfur smelling brackish well water  marginally fit for cleaning but not fit for drinking. Drinking water was either from bottles  or RO water  which cost about $0.50/gallon throughout the islands). The 3 mile crescent beach was also incredibly beautiful so we decided it was the perfect place to sail Kuivato around to and anchor off of our private beach club for three days. 

We finally got quite "hangry" and walked the 2 miles back into town where we had lunch at Miss Cooley's, one of two restaurants on the entire island. As we walked onto the deck over looking the Atlantic Ocean,  there sat Janaki and Graham , the only other patrons feasting on a fried conch lunch. 

The next day we sailed Kuivato from Great Harbor Cay Marina on the west side of the island, to our private Beach Club at Half Moon Bay, only 2 miles as the crow flies but a 20 mile sail around shoals and several smaller islands. We swam, snorkeled, relaxed and continued eating our delicious home cooked meals in this magical place. 

Reluctantly, we weighed anchor and sailed 30 miles south to White Island Cay anchorage. This gem was nestled between several deserted islands, White, Fowl, Hoffmans, and Saddleback Islands, where we spent 5 nights. We hiked to a blue hole on Hoffmans Cay and went hunting for conch, lobsters and Tim went out trolling for fish in the dinghy but the only thing we caught was a  coral ledge which took the fishing lure. Leela and Kuivato had the place to ourselves for two nights and then we were joined by MV and Shane on Gem, a Beneteau 50, and Judith and Phil on Cevitas, a  J 41. We all gathered for a bonfire at sunset and shared stories. The next night we enjoyed progressive apps and drinks getting tours of each other's boats which was great fun.

Phil, the "Hunter/Gatherer" aptly named by all the women, had caught wahoo, tuna and lobsters. 

This encouraged my hunter/gatherer, so when we left  midmorning for Nassau to provision before heading onto the Exumas, we reviewed the protocol if we catch a fish while under sail. 

As soon as we were in the deep 5000 ft waters of the Northwest Providence Channel, we threw out the fishing line and got to practice the sailing fishing drill. Once Tim got the first catch with in 50 feet of the boat, something changed with the line. We brought up the catch and it was a large barracuda whose entire body had been chomped off by a shark save for the head, what a sight! 

The next hit ended up chomping off half of the fluorescent orange sqid lure including the massive hook. It was likely a shark in both cases. The third time was the charm with Tim reeling in a beautiful 8lb Mahi Mahi; small for a Mahi Mahi, but just enough to fill our rail mounted fish cleaning table. It was quite a feat managing the sail. and bringing in the goods at the same time, but we succeeded. 

We heard pouring some alcohol in the gills subdues the fish quickly so out came the rum which worked great. As I continued on our course Tim went to work cleaning and filleting the fish and we looked forward to a fresh fish dinner once we arrived in Nassau.